Tulcea turned out to be an excellent base for both the Danube Delta and nearby attractions. Since renting a car for a day proved impossible, I didn't manage to visit the Old Believer villages. However, I did reach the godforsaken town of Babadag, which featured in the title of Andrzej Stasiuk's famous book. I also had the opportunity to admire the ruins of the medieval fortress Enisala, picturesquely situated on a former bay of the Black Sea.